Table Dimensions

• Table Size 30 3/16” by 60 3/8” by 2” (96 x 192 studs)
• Leg length 29 5/8”
• Table height 30 3/16” above ground
• Sneeze Guard Mount Holes 7 13/32” and 22 13/32” from edge of table

Sneeze Guard Dimensions

• Sneeze Guard Size 18” by 30”
• Sneeze Guard Height 16” above table
• Sneeze Guard Holes 7 1/2” from edge to center of 1/4” Slot 1” from bottom
• Bridge Sneeze Guard 46.25” by 60.25”; need two for 10’ bridge.

Building the Tables

SECTION 1- Items needed

Lumber

• 1x 4’x8’ 1/2 plywood, cut per drawing (please save scraps; if cut properly 2 sheets can produce 4 tables)
• 2x (per table) 8’ 2×2 boards (quality important – avoid warping, knots, etc)

Hardware

• Screws: (see pic) (quantity needed per table)

• 4x 2.5” #8 drywall screws (for the ends)
• 22x 1.25” #8 drywall screws (to attach the top to the sides) (If you have something with a flat head and similar dimension to these drywall screws, substitution is acceptable… although note the maximum thickness of the table top will be 2” !!!)
• 16x 1” #10 sheet metal screws (for the table legs) (substitution is discouraged)

Folding Table Legs

As of 2005, Ace Hardware stocked the folding table legs used on the tables… they run $20 for a pair.

Tools and Supplies

• phillips screwdriver/screw gun
• radial saw (to cut plywood), if not cut at the store
• handsaw/miter saw (to cut 2×2)
• bottle of wood glue
• measuring tape
• sandpaper

SECTION 2- Cutting the wood

To start off, it is encouraged to build tables 4 at a time to maximize the plywood, which is one the most expensive elements of building these tables. Two sheets of 4’x8’ plywood can yield 4 table tops. But, these instructions are perfectly fine if you just want to build 1 table.

To begin, when purchasing the plywood, if you have the lumber store cut it, please have it cut per this drawing.

Please note that the fractions of inches are highly important- do NOT cut short!

If only building one table, use the large 30 3/16 x 60 3/8 piece
If building 4 tables, use all pieces from two sheets of plywood.
either way, please keep the scraps- they will come in handy later.

Please note that the fractions of inches are highly important- do NOT cut it to 30×60”

Again the lengths are important (especially the fractions of inches) so cut carefully and precisely.

SECTION 3- Building the tabletop

place the plywood over the 2x2s and fasten the plywood to the 2x2s using the 1.25” drywall screws using this pattern:

(NOTE: placing a bead of wood glue between the 2x2s and the plywood is an optional but encouraged activity)

(Tip- drill pilot holes through the plywood makes screwing it down easier)

Here’s a close up of the corners- note we don’t go all the way into the corner since we will be using the longer drywall screws to tighten the ends.

Once the plywood is thoroughly fastened to the 2×2 ‘frame’, use the longer drywall screws to secure the end, as seen in the above close up, and in this picture:

Now turn the top over, and using some of the scrap pieces of plywood, arrange a sort of mounting bracket for the table legs, as seen here:

Arrange the legs as seen in this picture. Note that the legs are slightly off set… that allows them fold neatly into the tabletop.

NOTE: bigger pieces of 1/2” plywood can be used, and is even encouraged- the important bit is that it is 1/2” thick, for proper spacing.

Once you have the scraps of plywood arranged in the proper pattern, glue them to the table top with a generous amount of wood glue.

Let the glue dry for an hour or two.

SECTION 3A- splicing two smaller pieces of plywood to make a tabletop

If you bought 2 or more sheets of plywood and had them cut per the drawing in section 2, then you can use the other pieces to make additional table tops.

The 2×2 pattern is the same as a one piece of plywood table; just mount the 2 smaller pieces as seen here:

You may see a gap between the two pieces of wood- that’s okay, just make sure the outer corners line up with the 2×2 frame.

To add additional strength to these ‘spliced’ table tops, turn them over and wood glue some 2×2 scraps over the seam, as seen here:

HINT: make sure they won’t interfere with the operation of the legs; try arranging all the components first before gluing.

After the glue has dried, turn the table back over, and to add even more security, screw a few 1.25” drywall screws through the plywood into the blocks you just glued, as seen here:

SECTION 4- attaching the legs

The store bought legs should come with some 1/2” sheet metal screws to attach them to a table surface- you don’t need them. You will be using the 1” screws mentioned in section 1.

This allows us to have a more secure attachment between the legs and the table, as seen here:

Once attaching the legs has been completed, put the rubber ’feet’ that came with the set of legs on the legs.

NOTE: don’t use other aftermarket table feet products, such as crutch tips or adjustable table feet- they will add additional height to the table, and cause it to not match up with other tables.

SECTION 5- enjoying your table

Your completed table should match this:

Practice folding and unfolding the legs to break them in. Also, using some sandpaper or a file, go over the wood to remove splinters and rough spots- you hands will thank you for it later.

NOTICE: these tables are light duty tables designed to hold lego displays. They are NOT designed to sit on, sleep on, or stack heavy items on.